Skirt panel, 20th century
Kuba, Democratic Republic of the Congo
Cowrie shells, beads, thread, embroidered raffia palm fiber 31 x 75 in; 37 x 82 in. framed
The Kuba kingdom on the southern edge of the Congolese river basin prospered between the 17th and 19th centuries, becoming one of Central Africa’s most powerful societies. During that time, art and design played a fundamental role in the kingdom and both Kuba men and women were textile artists. Today Kuba ethnic groups are represented in about sixteen Bantu-speaking communities in what now forms the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Traditionally Kuba men cultivate, cut, and weave the raffia palm fibers into cloth, while women stitch together wide strips of fabric, embroider, and appliqué the designs onto the cloth. Wraparound skirts are unisex garments that are secured with a sash and are used during ritual festivals and performances. The skirt panel is richly ornamented with prized materials: cowrie shells, once used as currency in the region, were imported from coastal Africa, and glass beads were a luxury import from Europe. The more beads and cowrie shells embroidered onto a garment, the greater the wearer’s wealth and status.
More information on Kuba Textiles can be found here: